Thursday, September 5, 2013

Ile Saint Louis : the quiet old lady of Paris.
This piece of rock, in the middle of the Seine, looks like a boat viewed from the sky ( or from google earth, which is more convenient…).  And this little island cross by only one street in its middle is full of contradictions.
It’s one of the two islands still existing inside Paris limits ( a third near the Eiffel tower, l’Ile au Cygnes, is an artificial one). In fact, before the XVII th century, there were two different islands separated by a little channel: Ile aux vaches (the cows island) et Ile Notre  dame. The channel will be suppressed and it will be named Ile Saint Louis, to honor the king Louis IX who loved to pray there.
Compare to its prestigious neighbor Ile de la cite, with Notre Dame, and the Hospital Hotel Dieu and the court of justice, Ile Saint Louis is very calm and pour. No big monument, no touristic attraction, just its beautiful buildings, its main street and its docks. But what a pleasure to go for a walk in those little streets on a sunny day: take a ice cream at Bertillon’s, visit little shops, and have a drink at the terrace of a brasserie, just behind Notre Dame.
Good addresses and things to do:
First thing, let's suppose you participate to the french wine initiation at Wine Tasting In Paris, which is located just there, on the boat Batostar under Pont marie.
Starting from the Wine Tasting spot,  you will cross the bridge pont Marie by foot and reach the main street in the middle: Rue Saint Louis en L’ile.
If you go to your left, you will find at N° 29 the most famous ice-cream of Paris: Berthillon. It is a real institution for Parisians, since 1954 to taste some of their amazing flavors. Of course, all ice-creams are home made with natural fruits and ingredients. Don’t panic if you see lots of bars and restaurants offering Berthillon everywhere in the island: they are not copies. Berthillon use them as official dealers to be abble to supply all  customers. So it’s the same ice-cream with same quality, maybe just less choice than in the original boutique.
On the same side, there is the only Church of the island, built in XVII century by Le Vaux.
Then you can make a u turn to go to the west extremity of the island. At N° 41, there’s a very good restaurant: Sergent Recruteur, with one star in Michelin guide. This former touristic restaurant has been transformed by notorious designer Jaime Hayon . However, the main appeal lies in the stunning creative cuisine created by Antonin Bonnet.
The extremity of the island is one of my favorite spot in Paris. If the weather is good, you must take something to drink (a bottle of wine bought after your session of Wine Tasting In Paris, for example) and go down the stairs on the lower dock. From here, you will have a fantastic view on the back of Notre Dme, the Seine river and all its bridge and the Hotel de Ville. With the sun set, it’s magical.


 

Wednesday, July 10, 2013

Le Luxembourg : the ultimate Parisian Park                           

Be sitted in one the famous chair specifically designed by the city hall workshop in the 1920's, on a sunny day, pretend to read a book, and just look the girls coming from the Sorbonne University.... and you will become a real Parisian.
I can not remember how many hours I stayed there, reading, walking or taking picture. I think it's the Paris' place I most photographed.
This big park, which is now the senate's garden, has been created for Marie de Medicis in 1612. it's located in the 6th arrondissement. One of the main entrance is at the cross of Saint Michel's boulevard and rue Souflot.
I hardly recommend to arrive to the park by rue souflot, after "climbing" the Sainte Geneviève's hill and admire the Pantheon, this magnificent palace built on the top of the "rive gauche" ( a further post will tell you more about this hill who was the place of the first roman forum)

Before to enter in the park, you may find an art exhibition ( photography, mots of the time) on the park gates.
When you're inside, you must choose your camp: there's a real life in that park: the senators may cross the park sometime, with their grey suit and their counselors, elderly living in the neighborhood who come to have a rest under the large trees, students who come their with their sandwiches and books, mother and children, playing around the basin.
Before to go in the other part of the park I suggest you look for a good chair and have a rest here.
I must warn you that he fight for a chair is a kind of national sport here. It's a combination of observation, strategy and agility.But the best fighters will get the ultimate trophy: a long chair with armrest and a second one for the feet! Then you'll have to move it to have the perfect sun exposure and view ( and it's heavy like an anvil!)
Then take a book, whatever it is, and..... this is it, you're a Parisian.






The second part of the park is much more active: you can watch a game at the tennis court or the basketball playground. You can go with your children Watch the traditional puppet show in the little theater, or let them run is the large children playground.
Then you can observe the fights of the chess players playing on their enamelled lava table. There's sometime up to 200 players per day here, and if you look carefully, you can even find a international master among the anonymous people.


Then you can turn right after the Luxembourg museum, where there is often good painting exhibition if you are ready to queue for hours) and you exit of the park by a small gate that can drive directly to the small Streets of the 6th arrondissement and Saint Sulpice place and Church.... but that's the beginning of another story

1: Good spot to have a drink: the terrace of the Rostang: typical french brasserie
2: Take a armchair near the central basin
3:The french senate Palace
4: Tennis courts
5: Guignol theater: traditinal french puppets
6: Chess tables
7: Musée du Luxembourg and exit to Saint Sulpice


http://www.senat.fr/lng/en/the_luxembourg_palace.html

So many things to do in Paris                                     

There is already thousands of websites, articles and blogs to tell you the 10, the 50 or the 101 things to do in Paris. How do they select the exact number, the ultimate numbers of things you must do.
The fact is that there is so many things to do in this city, depending who you are, what you're interested in, how long is your stay,...
My purpose is not to select the top of the top, but just to share my experience, my pleasure, my my discoveries.
Who am I? Just a Parisian, not born here, but arrived 20 years ago, and still walking in the city, opening my eyes as if I've been arrived the day before. I love architecture, history, art, good food, great wines and drinking coffee sitting at the terrace of a small Parisian "cafe"